KIND OF CREATIVE WEAVING OF NUSANTARA

(Illustration: Fashion Event Clothing by Itang Yunasz)
Hey Dude,! Let us recognize the work of the heritage of our ancestors in The Archipelago is related to the socio-cultural and artistic handicraft invaluable they left behind for us and future generations, ie weaving or weaving.

And then our job to keep, preserve and popularize in accordance with modern times.Bismillahirrahmaanirrahiim.!

(Variations Weaving Songket)

Weaving is the work of a fabric made with yarn and fed into the feed means labeled warp. And weaving remains divided into Songket, as well as woven with gold or silver thread, then there was the sash, double sash, and feed.

To the Indonesian-ness is that one of the points that need to be considered by the fabric weave our day. These factors relate so much grip design that really should not switch construction time.

Namely weaving techniques in the implementation of the fabrics made with basic (principle) is a simple common threads by combining longitudinal and transverse. Together with other words its cross between warp and weft by turns.

The execution of the woven fabric is common in Indonesia. Especially in the area of Java and Sumatra.Average production of woven fabric made in the household scale. So Many areas that popular with the production of woven fabrics of West Sumatra, Palembang, South Sumatra and West Java.

Behind it anyway For the government plans to regulate the decision in laying the Indonesian name for the label that is truly international collaboration degan craftsmen,. There are also many brands who've created the prestige of weaving the talk of the fashion world such as: Gucci, ETRO or Dries Van Noten.

KIND OF CREATIVE WEAVING

#1. Sumatera Island

According to the many collectors of weaving the world from the United States and Canada, Sumatra has a big potential for tourist purposes will be the area of woven fabric world. Subject is based on motifs expert weaving and weaving production centers that are on the island. In the Sumatra area, many weaving which are popular among other Songket Weaving Pandai Sikek & Silungkang from West Sumatra, Jambi Songket Weaving, Weaving Malay, Toba, Dairi, Simalungun,South Tapanuli, Pakpak from North Sumatra, and others.

i.Weaving Songket Jambi South Sumatra
Weaving of this popular area along with the diversity of motives. Motifs typical of Jambi commonly depicted in weaving is partly a Angso Duo, Durian flower, Diamonds Flower(bungo intan), Curved Nail(keluk paku), Jasmine Flower(bunga melati), Durian Rupture(durian pecah), and Flower Tendrils(bunga sulur). Each motif certainly does have a special meaning. Motif Durian Rupture, for example, would have meaning earth's fertility and abundant results.

Jasmine flower motif that is the epitome of female beauty, while the motif Angso Duo to Weave Songket Jambi is the epitome of Jambi as Land Select Pesako Betuah(Tanah Memilih Pesako Betuah).

ii.Kain Tapis From Lampung in South Sumatra
Filter Fabric(Kain Tapis) is shaped Lampung ethnic female clothing sarong-made from cotton yarn woven together various motives, such as natural motifs, flora, and fauna which are embroidered (system beak/system cucuk) with gold and silver thread.

This weave is used to field average waist down. According to Van der Hoop, since the Second Century AD, some people had to weave brocade Lampung labeled Trays and Fabrics Pelepai(Nampan & Kain Pelepai).

All the 2-woven having motifs like motif hooks & konci(motif kait & konci), the tree of life and the building that contains the spirit of man that is dead, animals, sun, months, even jasmine. After crossing the span while quite long, the result was born the Filter Fabric Lampung(Kain Tapis Lampung). Some people of Lampung develop a consistent filter fabric is fitted together with the development of era both in terms of manufacturing techniques or motives.

Also read;

Eksplorasi Baru Fashion Designer Etnik Nusantara by Itang Yunasz.

#2.Java Island

Although Java is more prominent along with a variety of Batik, but no one could be that, long before the familiar printed batik, ikat weaving technique has been popular over-first. According to archaeologists, relief to the temples of the 14th century relic resembling motives batik decoration.

But, Matie Belle in his book titled "Splendid Symbol, Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia (1977)" said that perhaps these motives besides the batik applied alone, but has a more-came first to the fabric WEAVING Belt.

Apart from the events Weaving in Java, there are many parts of Java that have woven together with beautiful motifs glimpsed even in foreign countries, such as weaving Baduy of Banten, West Java and Weaving Troso from Jepara, Central Java.

#3.Kalimantan Island

In Kalimantan, woven headliner and had little circulating in foreign countries, among others the Weaving Sambas, Sintang Weaving & Weaving Iban Dayak from West Kalimantan, Weaving Doyo of East Kalimantan, as well as Weaving Pagatan of South Kalimantan. Even Weaving Sambas,

i.Weaving Sambas
Woven Sambas own popular because it has a distinctive motif, such as Bamboo Shoots Lunggi( lunggi pucuk rebung), Dagin Oblique(dagin serong), Regular Dagin & Cual Field on Fire(dagin biasa & cual padang terbakar). The raw material that is in gold thread. Has rarely flunky generation with the skills for creating Sambas woven fabric, are currently just the older generation of craftsmen Fabrics Sambas surviving.

ii. Weaving Doyo
The woven fabric made from natural materials, is leaf "Ulap Doyo" which resembles its form strong fiber pandan leaves can be used as the yarn.
Also read:

Batik Tenun Ulap Doyo Tenunan Khas Suku Dayak Benuaq,Kalimantan Indonesia.

#4. Sulawesi Island

Sulawesi as well as having multiple types of weaves are popular among designers. Which is a sample of the Weaving Buton in Southeast Sulawesi, Celebes Weaving of South Sulawesi, & Weaving Donggala, Central Sulawesi.Weaving Donggala

Named also shared Buya Sabe, commonly used as a cocktail dress for the parent, entertaining guests from outside, as well as clothes in events grief. In fact, the Government of the Province of Central Sulawesi, has issued rules for civil servants in uniform Weaving For Donggala against each weekend in the office. Process of Weaving Donggala, depending on the style of weaving.

#5. Bali Island

Bali also has a wide variety of weaving that favored both by local and international designers, such as weaving Gringsing of Karangasem, Weaving Splash of Nusa Penida(Tenun Cepuk), and Weaving Endek.

i.Weaving Gringsing
Or is also called Wastra Gringsing made of cotton yarn with a variety of motives that formed from double ikat (tie the warp and the weft threads at once). That said double woven category like this is very rare, only found in Japan and India, not just Indonesia. Its manufacture requires when quite long, ranging from one to five years, and is done with a technique that is difficult. Later, the results of this Gringsing Weaving would score geomteris neat patterns that fit and beautiful.

Wastra Gringsing Woven by villagers Tenganan Pagringsingan. But then the process of dyeing indigo and brown is actually done in another village. Because it is considered a taboo if it is done in the same village. Therefore, the color of indigo dyeing process is generally carried out in the village of Bug-bug and red-brown color is done in the village of Nusa Penida.

ii. Weaving Endek
Endek weaving ikat technique used with decorative enhancements to certain parts in the fabric together to continue coletan called nyantri. Nyantri ie extra color with the brush strokes of a bamboo like that painting. Nyantrinya diverse motives, such as flora, fauna, are also motives that are taken from mythology Bali and puppets. This Endek weaving and not least given the combination of gold or silver thread songket which are to trim the fabric.

#6. Lombok Island

Yes, this time we start to move to the next island! Lombok island .. not just put the beauty of nature or of art and culture, Lombok also have unique handmade, the weaving motifs typical charming yet.

i. Weaving Sasak
Sade Village is one of the centers of production of woven headliner Sasak in Lombok. The women run the implementation of weaving together the old ways, since the start of the yarn construction which utilizes natural ingredients such as pineapple fiber, banana fiber, cotton, bark; as well as in the aspect of staining that using materials from nature, such as the yellow color of turmeric, brown bark, red from betel leaves, and purple from indigo.

ii. Weaving Bayan
Variety of different weaving patterns can also be found in the Bayan district, North Lombok. In this area, a certain pattern woven together even obligatory owned by a resident population of habit. Also As a sample, such as woven fabrics Londong Abang (red fabric) must be enabled when attending a ritual custom program, such as Birthday of Maulid, Eid, and the Quran tomb.

Implementation Weaving Bayan complicated and difficult. The entire manufacturing process equipment utilizing wood and bamboo which is operated manually. While the process can be up to two weeks. In this process, though perhaps equally shared that there are in other places, but distinguishing between the woven fabric with woven outer Bayan. Bayan is that each pattern freehand portray the wearer comes from a particular village huts or in Bayan.
(various sources)

KIND OF CREATIVE WEAVING OF NUSANTARA